There is great controversy in Puglia about the exact ingredients of this pasta, but my fave includes toasted almonds, often scorned by some of the cooks I know, particularly in Lecce, where almonds are not cool. I first had this version in Brindisi on June 24th, St. John's Eve, in a tiny, since-closed osteria near the port, and it is my personal favorite.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

3/4 cup sliced blanched almonds
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups fresh bread crumbs
4 salt-packed anchovies, filleted, rinsed, and chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
1 onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1½ cups basic tomato sauce (page 71)
6 to 8 fresh basil leaves, chiffonade
1 pound lasagnette or pappardelle

1. Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot, and add 2 tablespoons salt

2. Meanwhile, in a 10-inch sauté pan, gently toast the almonds in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the almonds to a plate. In the oil remaining in the pan, toast the bread crumbs, stirring, until golden brown and crisp. Combine the bread crumbs and almonds in a small bowl.

3. Add 2 tablespoons more olive oil to the pan and reduce the heat to medium-low. Stir in the anchovies and crush them into the oil with a fork. Add the anchovies and oil to the bread crumb mixture and season with lots of black pepper. Set aside.

4. Add the remaining 5 tablespoons olive oil to the pan, add the onion and garlic, and cook gently until softened but not browned, Add the tomato sauce, bring to a brisk simmer, and cook until the sauce has been reduced by one-third. Add the basil, remove from the heat, and set aside.

5. Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain the pasta well, and toss into the pan with the sauce. Add half of the bread crumb mixture and toss to mix well.

6. Transfer the pasta to a warmed serving bowl. Sprinkle the remaining bread crumb mixture over the top, and serve immediately.