Instead of suffering through mediocre leftover risotto or relinquishing it to the garbage, Italians turn it into something entirely new: risotto cakes. Breaded and pan-fried, the cakes become browned and crunchy on the exterior and soft and creamy on the inside, especially when stuffed with soft, stringy cheese. There are several variations on this dish, including arancini and suppli al telefono. Literally ?little oranges,? arancini take their name from their color, not their flavor?they are tinted orange with a spoonful of tomato paste. Suppli al telefono, or ?telephone wires,? are a Roman specialty named for the cheese stuffing that, when bitten into, stretches into strings resembling telephone cables.

While both of these versions are delicious, we wanted a more substantial cake, something that could serve as a meal rather than just a snack. Increasing the size from the traditional small ball to a larger patty or cake was an easy step. However, we needed to keep the size of the cake small enough so that the interior would heat through in the same time that the exterior would brown. When the cakes were too thick, the inside was barely warm by the time the exterior was deeply browned.

Borrowing from suppli al telefono, we stuffed the center of each cake with a soft cheese that would melt, like mozzarella or provolone. We started off using grated cheese but found that bits of cheese worked their way to the exterior and burned in the oil. Diced cheese proved easier to manage and melted just as thoroughly.We hoped to simply dust the cakes with flour prior to frying, but we found that the cakes absorbed a great quantity of oil and turned sodden. A thicker coating of beaten egg and bread crumbs was substantial enough to shield the rice from the oil and turned quite crisp when fried. Seasoning the bread crumbs with black pepper, cayenne, and minced parsley improved the flavor and appearance of the coating.

For frying the cakes, we had expected to use olive oil, but tasters preferred vegetable oil, which produced a lighter-flavored and less greasy-tasting cake.

Risotto Cakes
Makes 2 cakes (serving 1)

Parmesan and saffron risotto are the best bets for this recipe, but just about any risotto works as long as its components are not too large, as in seafood or asparagus risotto. (The chunky bits will stick out of the cake and burn.) Spraying the measuring cup with nonstick cooking spray before measuring the risotto facilitates easy removal. To use the minimal amount of oil for frying, choose a pan just large enough to accommodate the risotto cakes without them touching. Two cakes can be fried in an 8-inch skillet. Although a spritz of lemon cuts the richness of the risotto cakes and sharpens the flavors, feel free to serve the cakes with tomato sauce or even a smear of pesto or olivada. Depending on how much leftover risotto you have, the ingredients can be easily multiplied for more servings. Note that four cakes will require a 12-inch skillet and more oil, which should reach halfway up the sides of the cakes as they cook.

1?2 cup fresh bread crumbs
Pinch salt
Pinch ground black pepper
Small pinch cayenne pepper (optional)
1 teaspoon minced fresh parsley leaves
1 large egg
1 cup leftover risotto, chilled
2 tablespoons finely diced mozzarella, fontina, or provolone cheese
1?2?2?3 cup vegetable oil for frying
Lemon wedges for garnish

1. Mix the bread crumbs, salt, ground black pepper, cayenne pepper (if using), and parsley together in a small shallow dish. Beat the egg in another small shallow dish. Measure 1?2 cup chilled risotto and shape and fill it with 1 tablespoon cheese. Repeat with the remaining risotto and cheese to form a second cake. Dip each cake into the egg, allowing excess to drip back into the bowl. Dip both sides of the cake in the bread crumb mixture, pressing the crumbs with your fingers to form an even, cohesive coat.

2. Pour enough oil into an 8-inch nonstick skillet to reach a depth just under 1?2 inch. Turn the heat to medium-high and heat until the oil is shimmering but not smoking, about 2 minutes. With a spatula, gently lower each cake into the pan and cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Flip the cakes with the spatula and cook until browned on the other side, about 3 minutes. Transfer the cakes to a paper towel?lined plate, blot any excess oil, and serve immediately with lemon wedges.

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