In Dakar I was served a rice dish that had a startlingly vivid red hue and a pleasingly intense flavor. The color and taste came from shrimp powder, made from dried shrimp pounded by hand to a fine, dusty powder, then sifted to remove any shells. Shrimp powder has limited availability in the United States, but it's worth seeking out at African or Asian markets. If you can't find it, you can get a similar color by adding a tablespoon of tomato paste along with the tomato juice.

¼ cup peanut oil
1 small red onion, sliced
1 jalapeno chili, seed and ribs removed, finely chopped
2 teaspoons shrimp powder (optional)
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tomatoes, chopped, or 1 cup chopped canned tomatoes
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 cup short-grain white rice
1 ½ teaspoons salt
2 thyme sprigs
1 cup tomato juice
2 cups water
¼ cup loosely packed cilantro sprigs, chopped

Heat the peanut oil in a large saucepan over high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the onion and cook until translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the jalapeño, shrimp powder, if using, and garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Reduce the heat to low, stir in the tomatoes and chili powder, and cook for 10 minutes, or until the oil separates from the tomatoes.

Add the rice and stir to coat. Stir in the salt, thyme, tomato juice, and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cilantro. Replace the cover and let sit for 10 minutes, until all the liquid is absorbed.

4 to 6 servings