Popovers are fascinating to watch since they begin to puff almost as soon as you add the batter to the pan. This is all the more amazing when we consider that they contain no leavening other than egg. You need a special pan for baking popovers. It looks somewhat like a muffin pan, except that it is traditionally made of heavy metal, so that it retains heat well. The intense heat is then delivered quickly to the batter the moment it is poured into the pan, which causes the popovers to rise. The melted butter is important, not only for flavor but also to ensure the popovers are light. For the best result, make sure the batter is at room temperature when you pour it into the pan.

Makes 12 popovers

1½ cups flour
½ teaspoon salt
3 eggs
2 cups milk
6 tablespoons butter, melted
3 tablespoons vegetable oil

Preheat the oven to 500°F. In a bowl, stir together the flour and salt until well mixed. Add the eggs and 1 cup of the milk and whisk until smooth. Stir in the rest of the milk and the melted butter and then let the batter sit for 30 minutes at room temperature. Transfer the batter to a pitcher to make filling the pan quicker and easier.

Put a 12-mold popover pan in the oven for 5 minutes to get hot. Then, as quickly as possible, slide the oven rack out slightly, brush the inside of each mold generously with the oil, and fill each mold two-thirds full with the batter. Push the rack back in and immediately close the oven door. Within minutes you should see the popovers rising through the oven window. Don't open the oven door again until the popovers are ready. When the popovers are golden brown, after about 15 minutes, turn the oven down to 300°F and bake for 10 minutes longer, or until the popovers are cooked all the way through.

Remove from the oven—they should pop right out of the pan. Encourage guests and family to break open the popovers as soon as they come out of the oven and spread them with butter and honey or jam.

Copyright © 2007 by James Peterson. All rights reserved.