4 large ears of corn (about 3 pounds), husked and silks removed
½ cup instant grits or instant polenta

1 cup Tomato Water (page 303), preferably made with yellow tomatoes
3 tablespoons (1½ ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Fine sea salt
Cayenne pepper

Two of the best things about summer are corn and tomatoes. This recipe is a marriage of the two united by creamy grits—or, as grits are called on Italian menus, polenta. Here fresh corn kernels add crunch and lightness to the comforting mushiness of the grits. Although grits traditionally have a fall or winter feeling—often fortified by a flavor boost from grated cheese—here we use tomato water to add a summery note of fruit and acidity.

When people taste this, they often respond to the tomato water by saying, "Hmmm…something interesting there, but I'm not sure what it is."

That's just the reaction you want.

Hint: This is a make-and-serve dish—it doesn?t hold well. But the corn can be cut a few hours ahead of time if necessary, and the final cooking will take only about 10 minutes. If yellow tomatoes are unavailable, make red tomato water. Although the flavor will be just as good, the grits may take on a pale pink hue.

The corn can be cut from the cob with a Benriner or by hand. To cut the corn on a Benriner (see technique photographs on page 38), set a Benriner fitted with the medium julienne blade over a bowl. Place an ear of corn on the Benriner and slide the cob across the blade to remove the kernels and their juices. Repeat with the remaining ears of corn. Then run the back of a chef's knife over the ears, pressing down to extract any juices missed by the Benriner. You will have about 2 cups of corn and juice. Discard the cobs.

To cut the corn by hand (see technique photographs opposite), with a sharp knife, cut a slit down the center of each row of kernels on each ear of corn. This will start to release the juices from inside the kernels. Stand the corn in a bowl and run a spoon up and down the cob to scrape the kernels and juices into the bowl. Then run the back of a chef's knife over the ears, pressing down to extract any of the juices missed by the spoon. You will have about 2 cups of corn and juices. Discard the cobs.

The corn can be held for a couple of hours in the refrigerator if desired.

When ready to serve, place the corn and juices in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Stir in the grits and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, or until the mixture becomes a thick mash. Add ¼ cup of the tomato water and stir for 1 minute, then add another ¼ cup of the tomato water and cook, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes, until the grits absorb most of the tomato water. Repeat with another ¼ cup tomato water, and then the final ¼ cup, cooking for a minute or two after each addition. Stir in the butter until melted, then stir in salt and cayenne to taste. The consistency should resemble mashed potatoes. Serve immediately. Makes 2½ to 3 cups; serves 4 as a side dish.

Serve as an alternative to a side of potatoes with fried chicken, grilled fish, such as striped bass, or—my favorite—thick pork sausages with lots of sage.

Copyright © 2006 by Michel Richard. All rights reserved.