YOU CAN USE either dried fettuccine or purchased fresh fettuccine, sold packaged in the refrigerated cases of most supermarkets, for this recipe. A combination of ground veal and pork and chopped bacon results in a more complex, robust flavor than the usual meat sauce. The salt-cured Italian bacon called pancetta is available at Italian markets and in the refrigerated deli case of many supermarkets.

4 TO 6 SERVINGS

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 cups chopped celery
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 pound ground veal
1 pound ground pork
4 ounces pancetta or bacon, finely chopped
2 14.5-ounce cans whole tomatoes in juice
1-¾ cups chicken stock or one 14-ounce can (or more) low-salt chicken broth
½ cup whole milk
5 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

12 ounces fettuccine
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 3 ounces), divided

HEAT oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onions, celery, and garlic; sauté until vegetables are tender and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Increase heat to high; add veal, pork, and pancetta. Sauté until meat browns, breaking up meat with back of fork, about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes with juice, 1-¾ cups stock, milk, and thyme. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered 1 hour 15 minutes, breaking up tomatoes with back of fork, adding more stock by ¼ cupfuls if ragù is too thick, and stirring occasionally. Season ragù to taste with salt and pepper.

COOK pasta in another large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain. Add fettuccine to pot with ragù and toss to blend. Season pasta to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to large bowl. Sprinkle with ½ cup Parmesan. Serve, passing remaining ½ cup Parmesan separately.