To make a good cornbread, you must have good cornmeal. What do I mean by that? It should have a coarse, sandy texture?most of the cornmeal from big companies is just too fine. Stoneground cornmeal, available at natural food stores and many supermarkets, is best. Be sure the cornmeal is fresh, as it contains oils that can turn rancid easily. As a precaution, always store your cornmeal in the refrigerator (something Southern cooks rarely have to do because they use up the cornmeal so quickly it doesn't have a chance to turn on them). Use a well-seasoned, never-been-washed cast-iron skillet to make this bread. Note variations.

Makes 8 servings

2 cups yellow or white cornmeal, preferably stoneground
¾ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
2½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups buttermilk
2 large eggs, beaten
¼ cup vegetable oil, preferably sunflower, plus additional for the pan.

Position a rack in the center of the oven. Generously oil a 9- to 10-inch cast-iron skillet (or a 9-inch cake pan) and place it on the rack. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Whisk the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together in a large bowl to combine. Make a well in the center. Whisk the buttermilk, eggs, and oil in another bowl until the eggs are well combined. Pour into the well and stir until the batter is just moistened?do not overbeat

Remove the hot skillet from the oven and pour in the batter. Bake until the bread springs back when pressed in the center, 15 to 20 minutes, then turn out on a plate or serve directly from the skillet.

Variations

Roasted Tomato, Onions, and Cheese Cornbread: Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add 1 coarsely chopped medium onion. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is golden, about 6 minutes. Stir in 2 minced garlic cloves and ½ teaspoon each chopped fresh thyme and oregano, and cook for 1 minute. Cool. Make the batter, stirring until moistened and lumpy. Stir in the cooled vegetable mixture and ½ cup shredded extra-sharp Cheddar cheese (preferably a farm-style imported British Cheddar). Stir until just smooth. Spread in the hot skillet. Top the batter with 8 Oven-Roasted Tomatoes. Bake as directed.

Fresh Corn, Chile, and Cheese Cornbread: Preheat the broiler. Broil one poblano chile, turning occasionally, until the skin is scorched. Cool. Remove the skin, ribs, and seeds, and chop into ½-inch pieces. Make the batter, stirring just until moistened or lumpy. Stir in the chopped chile, 1 cup fresh corn, cut from the cob, husks reserved. 4 cooked and crumbled bacon strips, ½ cup shredded queso blano or Monterey Jack cheese, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, and 1 teaspoon of chile powder. Stir just until smooth. Line the hot skillet with corn husks. Pour in batter. Bake as directed.

Oven-Roasted Tomatoes

Roasting tomatoes at high temperature brings out their natural sweetness. Preparing tomatoes this way is especially good when you use farm-stand tomatoes, but it does wonders with the ones from the supermarket, which aren't as tasty.

Makes 2 cups

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, as needed
2 pounds ripe Roma or plum tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, marjoram, or oregano

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 450°F. Generously brush a large baking sheet with some of the oil.

Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise. Season the cut sides with salt, pepper, and chopped herbs. Place, cut side down, on the baking sheet. Brush the skins with oil.

Bake until the tomato skins are lightly browned and the tomatoes are tender, 30 to 35 minutes.

Cool completely. Pull the skins off the tomatoes. Use immediately, or store in a covered container, covered with additional olive oil. (The tomatoes can be stored, covered with oil, and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. To remove from the oil, let stand at room temperature until the oil melts.